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Giorgio Armani Prive dedicated his collection of wildly expensive made-to-measure skintight column dresses and painted-on pantsuits to the victims of Japan's earthquake and tsunami."Homage to Japan" incorporated Japanese silks and shapes culled from kimonos into the Italian designer's trademark lean, clean-lined shapes.Strips of printed silks peeked out from slits on the back of peak-shouldered cropped jackets in black velvet. A pencil skirt and bandeau tops fitted with stiff architectural panels bloomed with oversized cherry blossoms. The head wear — always inventive at Armani — was made from what appeared to be Japanese wrapping paper or an explosion of folding fans.
As usual, the looks were so tight it was hard to imagine anyone besides a teenage model — or Cate Blanchett, who graced the front row, along with Katie Holmes — managing to wiggle into them.Rolland also looked to Japan for his fall-winter collection, but whereas Armani silhouettes were constricted, the French designer's were all air and flowing movement.Women Change With Sexy Lingerie.

Satin catsuits with dramatic slits up the thighs had built-in capes that billowed as the models strode boldly down the catwalk, and waterfalls of silky chiffon cascaded down the back of the column gowns.The collection's oversized accessories and sculptural accents blurred the fine line between couture and art.Mermaid dresses were cinched at the waist with oversized metal belts that glinted with chunks of fool's gold. Gold tubes stacked in an hourglass shape embellished the front of long-sleeved sheath dresses."That belongs in a museum," whispered one of the droves of chic couture-buying ladies from her front-row perch as a mermaid gown with an oversized metal and satin bow on the back swept by.
But it was the wedding gown — a kimono knit out of thick white yarn into intricate mosaic patterns — that took the audience's breath away and best showcased Rolland's impressive technical know-how.
The dress was so heavy, so monumental, that the model sporting it got stuck at the end of the runway, her stick-thin thighs not strong enough to make a U-turn. An usher and Rolland's chic ivory-haired mother scurried over to help her maneuver the train.